Day 20 – Wednesday, May 26

74.4 miles, 11.6 mph, Odometer: 1365 – Medora, ND to Hebron, ND

KEVIN – Rode I-94 for awhile after leaving Theodore Roosevelt National Park. After 17 miles, I rode Old Hwy 10 to the end. In Dickenson, I met some people at the Cenex station. After learning of my adventure, the clerk would not let me pay for my hot chocolate. I don’t think a woman has ever bought me a drink before.

By Dickenson, 30 miles in, my bike would not shift into my big chain ring. While trying to troubleshoot, I noticed my back tire. I had 40+ miles to go to get to camp and a replacement tire.

Suzi surprised me ~ 10 miles from camp on her bike. She had ridden downwind after starting without rain. By the time I reached her, she found the rain that I had been riding in and she turned back into the wind. She told me, “the headwind takes all the fun out of it.”

After my ride, I worked on my shifter and replaced the tire. Ready for tomorrow. Send me in, coach.

SUZI – We spent last night at the Cottonwood Campground in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I had not known about this park before. Campsites were first come, first serve. We got there fairly early and had our choice of sites. By nightfall most sites were occupied. Several Montana Conservation Corps groups were camping, friendly young people. From our warm trailer, we watched one bison grazing across the river. Prairie dog towns are scattered around the park, and feral horses descended from ranch stock roam here. This morning I dropped Kevin in Medora to start his ride, then I poked around the visitor center before driving on to Hebron, MT.

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Some people probably feel at home in country clubs. I feel at home in National Parks. Not surprising since I have been visiting them throughout my life. Each one is unique, of course, but also familiar, with the glossy colorful brochure to quickly educate me about my surroundings. Last night I read the brochure and newsletter. This morning I made a few stops for photos and to see what I could of the notable sights. This park was established in 1947 as a national memorial to President Roosevelt and to preserve his beloved Badlands. Roosevelt invested in the Maltese Cross Ranch in 1883 after coming to Dakota Territory to hunt bison. One year later, he became a cattle rancher in the area, but after three years, his herds were destroyed by drought and blizzards. The Maltese Cross Cabin was one of the sights I visited this morning.

“I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota.” Theodore Roosevelt, 1918

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P.S. My grandmother, Mary Elizabeth Elmenhorst Koos Determan, born in 1893, died in 1993, lived as a child in Dakota Territory. She traveled with her family by covered wagon to Oklahoma, where she raised 12 children, the youngest of whom was my mom, Rosie. I am so grateful for 32 years of memories of her strength, her laughter, and her love.

A creek with no name.

I wonder if the horse lives nearby.