Day 40 – Tuesday, June 15

33.2 miles tandem, 30.1 miles Trek @ 17.6 mph, Odometer: 2609 – Comins, MI to Sterling, MI

KEVIN – Madison and I rode the tandem with a tailwind which was fortunate as we rode rollers the whole way. We needed our small chain ring on numerous hills. Suzi has the timing down. As I turned onto the one mile gravel road to the campground, she picked me up and returned with me to camp.

SUZI – Leslynn and I had fun while Kevin and Madison were on the bike. We found a great playground at Rose City, MI. Someone designed and built a wooden train and boat which entertained us. The same train design appeared in another park later along our route.

Day 39 – Monday, June 14

31.6 miles tandem, 19.9 miles Trek @ 11.6 mph, Odometer: 2546 – Onaway, MI to Comins, MI

KEVIN – Madison rode the tandem with me today. The tandem ride was uneventful until road construction caused us to ride on gravel for miles behind a pilot car. The line of traffic on the other side waiting for us to clear was long. After Madison left me, I thought I was home free, until I reached a soft dirt road and had to walk my bike the last two miles to the campground.

SUZI – Well this is reminiscent of life when our children were small. I sit down to catch up on the blog and find that I am slowly falling more and more behind. Oh well, many things are more important.

Cedar Valley Campground was another pleasant RV park: clean, quiet, with a swimming pool that had seen hard weekend use but was all ours on a Monday afternoon. We’re still keeping a log of campgrounds but we’ve stopped rating them. As I write this on 6/17, we are relaxing in our 40th campground. The top rating went to Glacier Meadows Campground near East Glacier, Montana. It tied with Manistique Lakeshore on Lake Michigan in our ratings for beauty. That view across the meadow to the peaks of Glacier National Park was unbeatable.

Bathroom quality was the other major factor in ratings points. There was much debate about the vault toilet at Gorge Lake Campground in the North Cascades National Park. Can a vault toilet receive more that a 1 out of 5? Kevin and Suzi argued that a clean building with a locking door, no bad smell, ample toilet paper and hand sanitizer deserved a 2. Lauren thought otherwise. From that point on, Lauren felt that we were obliged to give a 3 to even the worst bathroom with a toilet, sink and shower. Kevin and Suzi still believe that the Gorge Lake Campground bathroom was worlds better than some they have experienced in the past.

These days we set up camp and someone goes to check out the bathroom and report to the group. Cleanliness and shower quality are the important factors. It’s been a while since we had to put quarters in a machine to turn on the shower water. But we would all gladly pay the quarters for plentiful hot water in a clean space. Michigan has been particularly prone to the barely warm, push-button shower which times out very fast and has to be repeatedly pushed. Sometimes Madison and I resort to using our trailer shower, which is a tight fit but reliable for warmth, water supply and cleanliness. $60 per night RV parks without good showers deserve bad reviews. Perhaps I’ll get around to posting some.

Day 38 – Sunday, June 13

43 miles, 16.2 mph, Odometer: 2494 – Mackinaw City, MI to Onaway, MI

KEVIN – South on the mitten of Michigan. Bicycles are not allowed on the Mackinaw Bridge. We all drove across early in the fog. The right lane was closed for construction, forcing me into the left lane onto a metal grid. Driving on that with the trailer felt slippery. I was glad to get back on the bike.

I rode with Lake Huron on my left. We are taking it slow with the plan to be near Detroit on June 18th. Madison and Leslynn will then fly home.

SUZI – Before settling into our campsite at Onaway State Park, we drove 10 miles east to Ocqueoc Falls and found the place to be on a hot afternoon. The gentle waterfalls and pools gave us some cool fun with Leslynn.

from Kathey

It was great to be able to join the Big Bike Trip for a few days.  It was the latest of many road trips I’ve enjoyed with Kevin & Suzi starting around 1978.  Suzi & I trace our road trip history back to the early 60’s in the family Rambler American.  I credit our parents with making us good road warriors and “troopers”.  May the tradition continue. 🚗🚴‍♂️

Hannah and I enjoyed our first trip out of the PNW in over a year; rural northern Wisconsin was a definite change of scenery.  Lots of trees, lakes, small towns, farms, friendly people and bugs (friendly and otherwise).  Though we did not see any live cows in dairy country, I suspect they are all staying in their air conditioned barns.  Life-size cow decor was plentiful.   We did not contribute to the biking odometer but gave Suzi a break from daily truck and trailer management and some of the cooking and cleaning, between ice cream stops.  My favorite ice cream: Lemon Bar! Best campsite: Indian Shores on Lake Tomahawk where we got in some Jet Ski time on the lake. Best restaurant: Mavericks Restaurante Mexicano in Woodruff, WI.

Wishing you favorable roads, winds and camp hookups for the duration!  See you in South Dakota. Kathey

Day 37 – Saturday, June 12

49 miles, 14.4 mph, Odometer: 2451 – Newberry, MI to St. Ignace, MI

KEVIN – We had our last day on the Upper Peninsula. The ride hugged Lake Michigan. Signs warning of sand on the road were frequent. The ride was cool for a change. Rain was threatened but I still have not had to ride in the rain. Tomorrow we cross the Mackinac Bridge down to the main body of Michigan. A rough estimate of miles to go is 1533.

SUZI – An early start put us in St. Ignace about 10 am. The girls had plans to take a ferry to Mackinac Island for the day. Kevin and his bike followed us over. With a couple rented bikes and kid seat, we all rode the 8 mile path circling the island. What a unique place! French fur traders joined the indigenous people here in the 1650’s. A fort was built by the British in the 1700’s. Today <500 permanent residents share the island with thousands of tourists who come to stay at the many hotels or ride the ferry over for the day.

The most unusual thing about the island is the lack of cars. A local ordinance from 1898 prohibits the use of motor vehicles on the island. There are a few exceptions for ambulances and the like. Horse-drawn vehicles and bicycles share the roads. It took five minutes to rent bikes and we headed off to explore. Leslynn enjoyed the playground at the large park overlooking Lake Huron, in which the island sits. Madison and I enjoyed prowling through a few shops and checking out the historical buildings and signage. Everyone enjoyed lunch and ice cream. A weekday visit probably would have been a bit less crowded, but we had perfect weather for our day on this delightful island.

Day 36 – Friday, June 11

28.7 miles tandem, 11.5 miles Trek @ 14.7 mph, Odometer: 2402 – Manistique, MI to Newberry, MI

KEVIN – Another day on the Upper Peninsula with ahead wind. Madison rode strong. It helped to talk about something she is passionate about.

MADISON – My second day on the tandem. Set a goal of 20 miles and reached 28, a success and an improvement over the last ride. I was more generous with myself over breaks and asking for mileage updates. Those changes seem to have had a net positive effect. So too did talking; Dad obliged me with some mild debate as the hills were infrequent. We spotted a pair of juvenile Sandhill cranes on the roadside and we stopped to get pictures, ostensibly to share with Rona, the family’s chief bird watcher.

SUZI – Leslynn and I are improving our teamwork as we close up the trailer, pick up groceries and catch up to the bicyclists. We found a good coffee shop in Manistique and scored a latte and an order of buttered toast for the drive. Like Zuzu, Leslynn is not a big breakfast girl, so she enjoys her sippy cup of water and, often, a fig bar while in her car seat. She will chat a bit, sing Baby Shark, or listen to Zuzu’s CD’s, currently Jackson Browne’s “I’m Alive” and Sting’s “Ten Summoner’s Tales.” Re-charging happens during the drive; phones, the battery pack, the trailer batteries and Leslynn, who usually manages a short nap so that she is fully charged when we arrive in the next camp.

Day 35 – Thursday, June 10

50.9 miles, 15 mph, Odometer: 2362 – Escanaba, MI to Manistique, MI

KEVIN – We took an easy day on the Upper Peninsula. I could see Lake Michigan on my right most of the day.

SUZI – We search online for campsites, reserve them when we can, and hope for the best. Today we pulled in to Manistique Lakeshore Campground, a privately run outfit on the shore of Lake Michigan. It was apparent immediately that this was a winner. The friendly woman in the office welcomed us efficiently and with lots of good information. Clean, level(!) site with a nice table and fire pit. Clean, well designed shower building. Walk/bike path to a small area of shops and ice cream. Easy walk to the boardwalk and beach where we entertained ourselves and Leslynn. The cooler, pleasant weather beside the lake made it even better. And the rain behaved by waiting to fall until we slept.

MADISON – Camping with a Toddler – To manage expectations, first of all, Leslynn is a mithril-spirited child. Curious and affectionate, determined to do many things herself but reinventing kindness and bonding steadily with our family as we travel. I am told most children are not so enjoyable to raise.

That said, if air travel with a toddler is an all day marathon in putting her first, camping with a toddler is a relay race. One adult minding her or two adults splitting their attention is enough to mostly keep her out of mischief. She’s not prone to wandering off (unlike her mother as a tot. Zuzu is relieved.) So far play dough, sidewalk chalk, bubbles, books, toys and movies, plus swimming, bike rides and walks keep everyone happy. Beach shovel and rake resulted in a lot of dirt carried to unlikely spots around the camp. Markers, as is the trouble at home, tend to decorate everything but paper. She’s not a picky eater, exactly, but when she’s done eating, her current behaviors are to offer food to whomever is sitting next to her, or to throw the remainder on the floor. She’s a happy swimmer, a cuddly bunk mate (sharing the dinette bed is working out best.) All in all, trust your relay team and enjoy a happy camper.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0609211445_hdr.jpg

Day 34 – Wednesday, June 9

84 miles, 15 mph, Odometer: 2311 – Bewabic State Park, MI to Escanaba, MI

KEVIN – Today’s ride was simply east on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Towns are sparse and tiny, not many places to rest and lunch, therefore I am in camp in early afternoon. Changed time zones again, now Eastern. I rode by a huge saw mill today. I have been passed many times by logging trucks. They make a big hole in the wind that helps when coming from behind but I need to brace for the blast when it comes from the front.

SUZI – With Madison and Leslynn, closed up camp and drove to Escanaba. Stopped along the way when we caught up with Kevin. Dinner in town was a nice change.

Day 33 – Tuesday, June 8

18 miles tandem, 60.7 Trek miles @ 14.5 mph, Odometer: 2227 – Woodruff, WI to Bewabic State Park, MI

KEVIN – Kathey and Hannah headed home after Madison began the ride. Madison has not forgotten how to ride the tandem. Great starts, no limit on cadence. She rode hard then bonked. Good start. I finished Hwy 70 then on to Michigan on small roads. Road kill through Wisconsin was notable for many water turtles. Why do they need to be on the road?

Today after my ride, I find treasure. Touches of Kathey: eyeglass bags hung by the bunks; velcro bench seats so the cushions stop sliding off; two ranger cookies.

MADISON – It’s raining now. We settled in a campsite right next to the showers, which will be nice in a bit. We rolled out the awning for some shade; Dad got out the tarp to nap on the grass. Leslynn is napping in the lower bunk. She and Zuzu went for a long walk to check out the campground. I rode the first 18 miles with Dad. Not bad for a mom who spent the preseason cajoling 8th graders into reading and writing, instead of training for this trip. On our water breaks, I asked Dad questions about his parents and grandparents. I asked between water breaks too, though he rightly pointed out that on the ride, we’re using our breath to move and there’s not much left for talking.

SUZI – Kathey and Hannah helped me button up the trailer for driving and we said our goodbyes. Then Leslynn and I drove to catch the cyclists and pick up Madison. The drive to camp was enjoyable, visiting with Madison. Then I kinda messed up by not getting enough information when we checked in at the state park office. So I got a long walk in the heat with Leslynn to have another go and score a better campsite. Grass and proximity to the shower building were worth the effort. Played Bananagrams with Madison at the picnic table before we enjoyed a terrific thunderstorm, one of my favorite things in the Midwest. The storm cooled things down and made for a relaxing evening and good night of trailer sleep. Some days are diamonds.

Day 32 – Monday, June 7

89 miles, 16.5 mph, Odometer: 2148 – Hayward, WI to Woodruff, WI

KEVIN – Light wind from the southwest early, then breakfast at 45 miles. No wind thereafter. I rode today off map straight east on Highway 70. I am still riding through the North Woods with lots of water all around. Today I stopped to photograph some of the bodies of water.

SUZI – While Kevin ground out 89 miles, the girls mostly wanted to have fun. With Kevin out of the trailer early, the air conditioner was turned on for a delicious pancake breakfast before closing up camp. In Woodruff, we stocked up at the hardware store on battery operated fans and more toys. Great Mexican lunch in Woodruff, then checked in at Indian Shores RV park on Tomahawk Lake. In camp there was swimming in the pool, jet skiing on the lake, shrimp and pesto for dinner, phone chatting with Andy, Maureen and Ballad, then more swimming with Leslynn before rocking her to sleep. Banagram games closed the day (reliable fun whenever Kathey and Hannah join the party!)